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Thursday, September 8, 2011

回味。儿时味道,现代做法 ~【分蛋法】传统蒸鸡蛋糕 Traditional Steamed Cake (Separated Egg Method) - Repost with English recipe


白白的传统蒸鸡蛋糕从小在我的记忆里就是七月婆婆做来拜拜的。拜拜后接下来的几天我们的早餐就是这蒸鸡蛋糕。我记得那时姑姑还会炸红枣芋头片和加入冬瓜糖的芋头丝,我超爱吃甜甜的炸芋头丝的,姑姑在炸时我总站在一旁准备偷吃,本来要拜拜的是不能先吃的,但是疼爱我的姑姑还是会私底下让我吃。此情此景我想再也不会重现了。姑姑或许再也不能为我们准备这些小点心,我突然想我为何不向姑姑学习然后由我来延续这儿时的滋味?到时由我来做给姑姑吃,Lucius以后也将能吃到妈咪儿时的食物。

顿时好怀念以前过节时家里热闹的情景。

婆婆做的蒸鸡蛋糕是用手打的。鸡蛋(不是5颗10颗,我想至少有30颗)是装在一个棕色的大瓦缸里,瓦缸放在地上,然后就用一个铜色的长得像蚊香一样一圈圈的打蛋器不停的打到鸡蛋变浓稠变浅色,拿起不会马上滴落为止。

当我有记忆时婆婆已上了年纪,所以我记忆中这吃力的工作是由表哥代劳,吃着我做的鸡蛋糕时妈妈和我说她也曾帮婆婆打过鸡蛋,一打就一个半小时。当时要吃这鸡蛋糕还真是用劳力换来的。


蒸鸡蛋糕的容器上是竹笼,竹笼有洞洞倒入面糊前要铺上透明的玻璃纸然后用绳子固定好。婆婆做的每个鸡蛋糕的size都好大,我说不上来有多大,但肯定不是我们现在常用的8寸或10寸。婆婆做的鸡蛋糕都会自动开嘴笑(没有撒糖的),婆婆还会用筷子在鸡蛋糕上点上红点。

婆婆做鸡蛋糕不需食谱,就是一碗蛋,一碗糖配一碗面粉,小时候我就爱往厨房里钻,这些都是我听来的。记忆中婆婆做的鸡蛋糕不会很甜,所以我不晓得婆婆是否有减糖,但是我知道婆婆常常会下多过一碗的面粉,据说面粉下得比较多鸡蛋糕自然会开嘴笑。所以,婆婆做的鸡蛋糕是属于比较扎实的,吃时不会掉满地蛋糕屑,颜色很白,说不上松软,但也不会硬邦邦,总之就是笑得很美就是了。

当时的那些竹笼,瓦缸,打蛋器不知在哪里了,要是还留着我好希望能扛回家,毕竟这些东西装载了好多我美好的儿时记忆,是用钱也买不到的。

我试过用同样的方法来做鸡蛋糕,当然我用的是电动打蛋器,为了减低甜度和希望做好的鸡蛋糕比较松软,我把糖和面粉的比例减低。成品不错吃但我还是觉得不满意。于是再次尝试时我把做法改成了现代的分蛋法,还有加入了少许植物油让鸡蛋糕不至于太干。我发现用分蛋法比较容易拌入面粉,那么因为搅拌过度导致消泡的机会就能大大减低。

这回的成品我感到相当满意(除了稍甜),但是还是比不上很久很久以前(当时我应该在念小学或是初中吧)婆婆的朋友送过给我们吃的鸡蛋糕,撇去情感,那是我吃过最好吃的鸡蛋糕,虽然那鸡蛋糕没有开嘴笑。


传统蒸鸡蛋糕 (分蛋法)
(食谱来源:Angel of Cook.Bake.Love)

材料:
鸡蛋(大)5颗(去壳后重300克)
白糖 170克(视个人嗜甜度,看注1)
蛋糕粉/低粉 200克(看注2)
塔塔粉 1/8茶匙(随意,不用也行)
植物油 1汤匙

做法:
1)蛋黄蛋白分开。在干净的碗里,蛋白打到粗泡后加入塔塔粉和1/3的糖。继续用高速打到泡沫变细后加入另外1/3的糖,打到湿性发泡时加入剩余的糖转中速打到干性发泡。此时可以开始煮水。
2)蛋黄一颗颗加入,没加入一颗前用低速拌均,全部加入后转高速打到浓稠(约1分钟)。这时提起打蛋器蛋液不会马上滴落,在蛋液上画花纹纹路会很明显而且不会马上消失。
3)分3次筛入面粉,每加入一次面粉前用刮刀从下往上拌均至到看不到粉的痕迹。
4)加入植物油拌均。倒入铺上烤盘纸/玻璃纸的8寸烤盘/竹笼,抹平表面,大力往桌面敲一下。此时蒸笼的水已煮滚,放入蒸笼大火蒸约30分钟(中途不可开盖,所以蒸前要确保蒸笼里有足够的水)。

注:
1)170克的糖我是用蛋液总重约55%来计算的,我觉得这个份量太甜了。第二次做我减到160克还是觉得甜,所以我觉得可以减到150克或以下。
2)因为爸妈吃惯以前婆婆做的比较扎实的鸡蛋糕,所以我用了较高的粉量,如果喜欢比较松软的口感建议把粉量减低,可以在150克到200克间游走。

Traditional Steamed Cake (Separated Egg Method)
(Recipe source: Angel of Cook.Bake.Love)

Ingredients:
5 large eggs (300g without shell)
170g sugar (depends on own liking, see note 1)
1/8 tsp cream of tartar (optional)
200g cake flour (sifted) (see note 2)
1 tbsp vegetable oil (corn oil/canola oil etc)

Method:
1) Separate egg white and egg yolk. In a large mixing bowl, whisk egg white till foamy, add 1/3 of sugar and cream of tartar, continue to whisk at high speed, add remaining sugar in 2 sessions, change to medium speed after soft peak and beat till stiff.
2) Add egg yolk one by one, beat at low speed till incorporated into the meringue before each addition.
3) After all the egg yolks are added, change to high speed and beat till the mixture become very thick (about 1 minute). When lifting up the beater, the batter won't drip immediately. Try to write an "8" on the batter, the outline will stay visible for a while.
4) Fold in flour in 3 sessions with a spatula, mix well before each addition.
5) Add oil and mix well.
6) Pour batter into an 8” round pan or bamboo steamer pan lined with baking paper/wax paper, steam at high heat for about 30 minutes (make sure there is enough water in the steamer, avoid opening the lid to add water). Remove cake from pan and cool on wire rack immediately.

Note:
1) The sugar amount is calculated based on 55% of the total weight of eggs but I find it too sweet. On my second attempt I reduced the sugar to 160g but I still find it too sweet. So I think the sugar amount can be further reduced to 150g or below.
2) My family prefers firmer texture, so I used 200g of flour. Feel free to reduce the amount of flour (between 150g to 200g) if you prefer softer and fluffier steamed cake.

22 comments:

  1. Hi ur steam cake look so well done and moist. Pls can u translate the recipe in english. Cannot read chinese. Would like to try this separate egg method. Thanks and have a nice week

    ReplyDelete
  2. 食谱我收起来先,下次做给我家婆吃,谢谢Angel的食谱 ;)

    ReplyDelete
  3. mmm... i like this so much. Must try ur recipe one day.

    ReplyDelete
  4. 很有回忆的鸡蛋糕, 我记得只做过一次。 下次用你的方法试试看。 不过用手打发30粒蛋, 真的很厉害。

    ReplyDelete
  5. 以前小时候,妈妈做这蛋糕时,我总是喜爱蹲在一边看一边等待用剩的F&N橘子水,用不完的话有汽水喝。 :)

    ReplyDelete
  6. this really brings great memories of your grandma and phew, how she managed to beat so much eggs by hand?! i might like to give this recipe a try some day..

    ReplyDelete
  7. 我小时候也吃了很多婆婆做的鸡蛋糕,忽然间很想念她。。。

    ReplyDelete
  8. 对啊~我婆婆也是这样(^-^)
    每次打电话问都问不到准确的配方
    老人家做东西都是大概大概的

    ReplyDelete
  9. 我也好怀念妈妈的鸡蛋糕,那种儿时的味道已经找不到了。。。
    谢谢你的分享^o^
    食谱我带走了!!

    ReplyDelete
  10. 我的妈咪也是用“碗”来取代称。
    我怀念的是妈咪做的鸡蛋糕(kuih bahulu).

    ReplyDelete
  11. my kids and i love this so much, the other day, i tried Jane's Ah Mah recipe, it was super good, just realized i forgot to post this out. I must try your recipe one day. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  12. 鸡蛋糕?很清淡,我比较喜欢重口味的,所以我看看就好。。呵呵 ^_^

    ReplyDelete
  13. 鸡蛋糕小时常吃,谢谢你的分享和食谱^^

    ReplyDelete
  14. Hi thank you very much for reposting it in english. Very much appreciating ur time to do it. thanks again

    ReplyDelete
  15. Thanks for posting the recipe in English. I was just about to ask you. I am going to try this out soon.

    ReplyDelete
  16. thanks for your recipe!! :) I like it so much!!

    ReplyDelete
  17. my grandma's favourite cake. in spite of all the fancy cakes out there my mum tells me my grandma's favourite is still steamed cake. thanks for all the tips!

    ReplyDelete
  18. 谢谢大家都留言。:-)


    hsling,
    老人家大都爱吃鸡蛋糕,你有这个心你家婆一定爱死你。


    icafe,
    很久以前我做过加7-up的鸡蛋糕,下次试试橙汽水。


    Anncoo,
    我也很想念我的婆婆。

    ReplyDelete
  19. angel谢谢你的食谱 .by 慧萍

    ReplyDelete
  20. 慧萍,

    不用客气,希望你会喜欢。

    ReplyDelete
  21. Replies
    1. Tiffanykho,

      传统的鸡蛋糕口感本来都是比较扎实的,不会像一般海绵蛋糕般软,但也不会硬。我是根据我家人的口味来调整食谱的。

      现在很多外面卖的所谓鸡蛋糕都是加了乳化剂(SP),才有那种绵密的口感。

      Delete

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"总觉得用心准备的食物不只是味蕾的触动,也是一个记忆,一个我想留给身边心爱的人的记忆。这也就是我用心做菜,细心专研的原因和推动力。"